Introduction. Barrier creams are on the market as cosmetics or medical devices; they are often prescribed by occupational doctors to workers against chemical risk. In the most of the case, they act by forming a superficial film allowing a mechanical protection of the skin. The evaluation of the efficacy of barrier creams is an argument in discussion at regulatory level. The in vivo evaluation show high variability and appears not suitable for the screening of a large number of products and ethical reasons do not allow to test irritants or hazardous substances. Some attempts to propose in vitro methods were done in the past; they were based on the use of the Franz diffusion cells. Nevertheless, until now there are not official in vivo or in vitro methods to quantify the efficacy of barrier creams. Methodology. In this study for the in vitro evaluation of the protective capacity of the barrier creams, two different methods were compared: the Franz diffusion cell method and human epidermis as a membrane and a 3D reconstructed human epidermis model. 1% caffeine in solution was used as hydrophilic probe chemical with a well know kinetics on human skin in vivo and in vitro. Experiments were performed over a period of three hours. Six products, O/W or W/O creams claimed as skin protective, were tested and petrolatum (WP) was used as positive control, being overall considered efficient against hydrophilic molecule. Each product was spread on the membranes and left to room temperature two hours before application of caffeine solution. Result and Conclusions: By using both methods, permeation of caffeine after application of WP resulted below 2% with respect to control solution. This confirmed the effectiveness of the two methods. Moreover, by using the tested barrier creams a quite variable reduction of caffeine permeation was observed. With respect to control solution, Franz cell method and 3D reconstructed human epidermis model showed a caffeine permeation range from 10 to 87% and 24 to 75%, respectively. Within this range, a value indicating the protective effect should be established. The results from the two methods were in agreement. Furthermore, these results suggested that both in vitro methods were able to discriminate among different cream barrier products.

Barrier creams: development of in vitro methods to evaluate protective capacity / A. Casiraghi, F. Ranzini, M. Meloni, P. Minghetti. ((Intervento presentato al 40. convegno Interdisciplinary International Concept Conference SICC (Società Italiana di Chimica e Scienze Cosmetologiche) tenutosi a Milano nel 2015.

Barrier creams: development of in vitro methods to evaluate protective capacity

A. Casiraghi
Primo
;
P. Minghetti
Ultimo
2015

Abstract

Introduction. Barrier creams are on the market as cosmetics or medical devices; they are often prescribed by occupational doctors to workers against chemical risk. In the most of the case, they act by forming a superficial film allowing a mechanical protection of the skin. The evaluation of the efficacy of barrier creams is an argument in discussion at regulatory level. The in vivo evaluation show high variability and appears not suitable for the screening of a large number of products and ethical reasons do not allow to test irritants or hazardous substances. Some attempts to propose in vitro methods were done in the past; they were based on the use of the Franz diffusion cells. Nevertheless, until now there are not official in vivo or in vitro methods to quantify the efficacy of barrier creams. Methodology. In this study for the in vitro evaluation of the protective capacity of the barrier creams, two different methods were compared: the Franz diffusion cell method and human epidermis as a membrane and a 3D reconstructed human epidermis model. 1% caffeine in solution was used as hydrophilic probe chemical with a well know kinetics on human skin in vivo and in vitro. Experiments were performed over a period of three hours. Six products, O/W or W/O creams claimed as skin protective, were tested and petrolatum (WP) was used as positive control, being overall considered efficient against hydrophilic molecule. Each product was spread on the membranes and left to room temperature two hours before application of caffeine solution. Result and Conclusions: By using both methods, permeation of caffeine after application of WP resulted below 2% with respect to control solution. This confirmed the effectiveness of the two methods. Moreover, by using the tested barrier creams a quite variable reduction of caffeine permeation was observed. With respect to control solution, Franz cell method and 3D reconstructed human epidermis model showed a caffeine permeation range from 10 to 87% and 24 to 75%, respectively. Within this range, a value indicating the protective effect should be established. The results from the two methods were in agreement. Furthermore, these results suggested that both in vitro methods were able to discriminate among different cream barrier products.
giu-2015
Settore CHIM/09 - Farmaceutico Tecnologico Applicativo
Barrier creams: development of in vitro methods to evaluate protective capacity / A. Casiraghi, F. Ranzini, M. Meloni, P. Minghetti. ((Intervento presentato al 40. convegno Interdisciplinary International Concept Conference SICC (Società Italiana di Chimica e Scienze Cosmetologiche) tenutosi a Milano nel 2015.
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: https://hdl.handle.net/2434/283044
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